I've had a few breaks in leg joints on some of my T's and a popular dealer here in the states told me to just dump some of the substrate on the wound. All that is needed is some sort of something to help stick and that will help clot the wound. The substrate will stick to the leaking hemolymph and act as a clotting agent. It's worked every time for me so that's what I would do. It seems to be less risky than the glue. You sure don't want any of that glue getting anywhere that might harm your T. You never know, she could rub it with another leg and then clean the leg. Not good. Good luck with what ever you try.
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Neil,
I think or feel that maybe you might want to review some basic tarantula information. I'm trying to insult at all, but you're sort of new (=less than 5 years) to this?
First the new legs are often quite flexible, but should it get caught it will autonomize it itself, IF the animal has enough muscular strength and "blood pressure". The glue will not penetrate to the new exoskeleton even if is was forming as there is lots of fluid between the two. Unless some can point out the flaw here, I honestly think keeping that leg is important.
Jeremy, the various powders trick was suggested before and has not worked as per Neil's posts.
As for food, the spider has a large abdomen, much of that is water and food storage. While I know this species is plagued with exoskeletal problems in the hobby here (US, I'm ignorant of UK), I suspect that a small meal once a week with fully available water should keep it healthy enough to molt.
What you do not want to do is have that abdomen stretch from getting more food!
The way I'd approach this is as a waiting game, maintaining the spider's health with minimal feedings until the time of the next molt. The hope is that the injury does not cause major molting problems, if so have the super glue ready at that time! Do you have it's molt records by the way?
In any case, the spider can live without that leg if you choose to remove it, but I'd not try to fatten up that critter until you see a nice new healthy abdomen.They've got oour names! It's the pris'n hoose for us!
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Christian,
i think you're right about the feeding regimen, by the size of the abdomen there's digested foodstuffs there for quite a while.
I'm quite a big believer in superglue for carapace, abdomen and non joint leg repair (such as puncture wounds etc) and have shyed away from using it on joints for the problems listed on this thread.
if i may hypothesise....the result of glueing the joint would restrict movement, this is certain due to the extent of the injury....do you think that the lack of movement would bring forward the moulting process as the spider would feel encumbered by the restricted movement of a limb.Don't forget to learn what you can, when you can, where you can.
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Colin
I see your point, and to be very honest, I'd make my choice by looking at the animal and the extent of the leakage. I just read on the ATS forum of what appeared to be a self-autonomization by a tarantula, in which a damaged leg was basically webbed up and pulled off... I'll have to re-read that, but I'm pretty sure that is what was being reported.
To be honest, with high humidity and just the tiniest leak, I'd personally not worry too much. A big leak... well then we have our current problem, pull the leg or keep trying to patch it. Maybe a picture would help in this case. I do know a lot of folks who would just pop the leg off and be done with it. In many cases I would tend to agree, but here we have abdominal trauma, and securing the spider might increase the likelihood of a rupture.
The real question, once this pesky leg is dealt with is IF the spider will survive a molt at all!
If it was my spider, I'd withhold food as much as possible and when I did feed, it'd be a wide variety of items to help diversify whatever building blocks the tarantula needs to sequester for the up coming molt. T. blondi are pushed far too fast with not enough diversity in the diet which, I feel leads to many molting problems.
Without seeing the spider, I'm just guessing and suggesting, and about out of ideas. Although I do tend to be a "let the spider fix itself kind of thinker, but to do that some changes might need to be implemented by the human care taker.
Again, I hope someone has kicked the shipper a bit.
ChristianThey've got oour names! It's the pris'n hoose for us!
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Christian
Im not new to the hobby , ive actually kept them for about 10 years !!
I just havent ever had a leak or injury to any of my tarantulas thats all mate .
The thought of such a large tarantula dying tho is hard to accept , and i just want to do everything i can to prevent that from happening !
She doesnt seem to have a lot of go in her or seems capable of doing anything fast , which is why i can tend to her so easily
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I'm crawling up on nearly 15 years myself, so we're all old timers here! I try to pay very close attention to veterinary issues in our hobby, even though like you, I have not had a problem! I have assisted, in the field, the removal of a leg, and some minor patch work, but treat this area with the most attention.
In any case, that damaged abdomen really has me concerned. It sounds like it might be developing into an ulceration. That's bad, obviously.
Hmm... I'd just relax, let the spider do as it can, and hope.
Could you get another picture of that leg also? Maybe the location and the amount of fluid loss will kick someone's head into gear!
Good luck, it's great to see you care so much. Sometimes the old timers get complacent in their care, in this case, not you!
ChristianThey've got oour names! It's the pris'n hoose for us!
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Originally posted by Christian Elowsky View PostJeremy, the various powders trick was suggested before and has not worked as per Neil's posts.
Thanks for stateing the obvious. I saw the posts where powder had been used and did not work however, powder is not substrate and I did not see where substrate had been tried. Thanks
@ Neil
In reguards to the leg, I've seen many posts about this issue with T. blondi tarantulas and there is very little that can be done to prevent this. May I suggest that since many things have been tried and failed, take a break from it for a couple of days and see if the T won't heal itself (which also has been suggested) for the sake of releaveing exess stress on the T. As far as the abdomen goes, It will either heal over a couple more molts or it will ruptur. Once again there is little you can do. Best wishes with this and good luck.
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Neil,
It seems that the leg injury will be taking second place in the field of concern if the abdomen swelling gets more serious.
Have contacted a Veterinary friend of mine (for any help really) who reminded me of a meeting we both attended some 25 years ago where the results of a post mortem from a tarantula, which had fell 18 inches to a wooden floor, was reviewed. The spider was found to have (amongst other injuries) ruptured the "rectal sac" and digested fluids had leaked to the surface in the short time the spider lived after the fall.
This could possible link with your spider in this case showing signs of the "bruise" swelling more after feeding, whether or not to halt all feeding is a descision you'll have to make as you are experiencing the problem first hand (myself, i would aire towards stopping).
My friend commented that "normally" ruptured organs are not good internal healers and it may possibly not make it through the stress of a moult, although he sincerely hopes he's wrong!!
Sorry for sounding so pessemistic mateDon't forget to learn what you can, when you can, where you can.
Please Support CB Grammostola :- Act Now To Secure The Future
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Sorry again to hear about your tarantula. Seriously with leg breaks I recommend talcom powder, I've used it myself when oe of my Euathlus broke his leg and it works. I know its only re-stating what others have said but your spider has been traumatised and is not very well. The best you can do is keep her in perfect living conditions, monitor the food as has been said and most importantly plenty of TLC. The leg will heal next moult and hopefully the abdomen will too. All the very best of luck, and in your spare time pay that postman a visit and tell him what we all think of him!sigpicHate is for people who find thinking a little too complicated!
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Thanks everyone for your help
Im not very optimistic but im hopefull . Ive wanted an adult female blondi for ages and when i found her i was over the moon.
If she dies , i will be gutted , i feel responsible for having her posted and wish id never done it now . Had i known how she was gonna be shipped , i certainly wouldnt have bought her .
I do tho , blame the Post Office
They must have chucked it ,dropped it or at the very least not given a stuff about it . *******
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Niel, i think your're gonna have to accept that your blondi is at the stage now where either she's gonna pull through or she isn't.
A lot of people have suggested it albiet not that forcefull but i think you should really leave her totally alone now.
No walking about in front of her, no feeding, no taking pictures, no vibrations....nada.
Everyone here wants her to pull through and be ok but it's gonna have to be her that does it....
Put her in a warm place and seal her container to keep in the humidity that'll save you disturbing her with spraying. Just unseal her once a week and waft gently over her enclosure to freshen out her air supply.
Considering the size of her stomach she'll be allright for a while yet without food.
If theres no food in her enclosure and you are not examining her leg or whatever then theres a good chance she'll remain motionless which should also help her leg to seal itself.
I do tho , blame the Post Office
They must have chucked it ,dropped it or at the very least not given a stuff about it
My fingers are crossed for your blondi Niel..
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