Hi all
Just a quickie on humidity I have tried to maintain the humidity for my
L Para at about 80%-85% as quoted by umpteen websites for this species.All my previous "T"s didnt need it that humid. but the only way to keep this much moisture was to plug up most of the holes in the viv causing stagnant air , soggy substrate , and condensation apparently very bad for the spider as it encourages mould etc
After reading Stans post saying forget about precise humidity I unplugged the air vents to give better circulation and dry out the tank a bit and hey presto one very happy spider instead of sitting around sulking she is now actively chasing and eating everything edible in sight
I dropped in a 1 inch cube of sirloin steak and whoosh its a goner 10-15 medium crickets in the last 24 hours ( will slow it down a bit now before she bursts) its like having a different spider
The question is what is the lowest humidity i can get away with for a
7" L Para? I don't want her getting to dry and having problems when it comes to moulting Is it ok to rack up the humidity when a moult seems due or is it to late then
The humidity now is about 60%-70% at opposite ends of the viv
I'm confused like all you guys n gals i just want whats best for the spider but with so much conflicting info on humidity i'm losing the plot
Cheers
Clint
Quoted from Stan Schultz previous thread
"HUMIDITY: The other vastly overrated and furiously argued care parameter with tarantulas.
Babies need to be kept in a humid atmosphere because they have not yet developed a waxy layer on their exoskeletons to retard water loss. They do so by about 2" (5 cm) leg span. (Now you know why I made such a deal about it above.) Once it passes the magic 2" it'll do just fine at room humidity unless your house gets really dry in winter or you live in a desert.
If your tarantula seems to take up a permanent residence next to (or upon) its water dish, then you really do need to do something about the humidity. And that would be... Cover the open part of the cage with plastic food wrap to stop almost all ventilation. That will hold in the natural humidity from the water dish. Don't worry that your tarantula will suffocate. They have such low oxygen demands that it's pretty much impossible unless you seal them in a canning jar!"
First visit:
http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/show...7&postcount=12
http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/show...4&postcount=15
http://www.atshq.org/forum/showpost....9&postcount=13
http://www.atshq.org/forum/showpost....80&postcount=9
http://www.thebts.co.uk/forums/showp...09&postcount=6
http://www.thebts.co.uk/forums/showp...1&postcount=18
http://www.thebts.co.uk/forums/showp...6&postcount=11
Just a quickie on humidity I have tried to maintain the humidity for my
L Para at about 80%-85% as quoted by umpteen websites for this species.All my previous "T"s didnt need it that humid. but the only way to keep this much moisture was to plug up most of the holes in the viv causing stagnant air , soggy substrate , and condensation apparently very bad for the spider as it encourages mould etc
After reading Stans post saying forget about precise humidity I unplugged the air vents to give better circulation and dry out the tank a bit and hey presto one very happy spider instead of sitting around sulking she is now actively chasing and eating everything edible in sight
I dropped in a 1 inch cube of sirloin steak and whoosh its a goner 10-15 medium crickets in the last 24 hours ( will slow it down a bit now before she bursts) its like having a different spider
The question is what is the lowest humidity i can get away with for a
7" L Para? I don't want her getting to dry and having problems when it comes to moulting Is it ok to rack up the humidity when a moult seems due or is it to late then
The humidity now is about 60%-70% at opposite ends of the viv
I'm confused like all you guys n gals i just want whats best for the spider but with so much conflicting info on humidity i'm losing the plot
Cheers
Clint
Quoted from Stan Schultz previous thread
"HUMIDITY: The other vastly overrated and furiously argued care parameter with tarantulas.
Babies need to be kept in a humid atmosphere because they have not yet developed a waxy layer on their exoskeletons to retard water loss. They do so by about 2" (5 cm) leg span. (Now you know why I made such a deal about it above.) Once it passes the magic 2" it'll do just fine at room humidity unless your house gets really dry in winter or you live in a desert.
If your tarantula seems to take up a permanent residence next to (or upon) its water dish, then you really do need to do something about the humidity. And that would be... Cover the open part of the cage with plastic food wrap to stop almost all ventilation. That will hold in the natural humidity from the water dish. Don't worry that your tarantula will suffocate. They have such low oxygen demands that it's pretty much impossible unless you seal them in a canning jar!"
First visit:
http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/show...7&postcount=12
http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/show...4&postcount=15
http://www.atshq.org/forum/showpost....9&postcount=13
http://www.atshq.org/forum/showpost....80&postcount=9
http://www.thebts.co.uk/forums/showp...09&postcount=6
http://www.thebts.co.uk/forums/showp...1&postcount=18
http://www.thebts.co.uk/forums/showp...6&postcount=11
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