Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Feeder insects

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Feeder insects

    Hello evryone,

    I have been researching feeder insects a bit trying to find out which are best to breed spacewise and maintenance wise and have come up with

    -crickets
    -roaches
    -waxworms
    -Flies
    -mealworms

    Any others I can add to that list?

    I thought it would be wise to share the most important info I have found on breeding the insects mentioned above. I know I would have appreciated a post like this when I started anyway.

    So here goes:

    Crickets:

    -Cardboard boxes work as containers
    -Use brown packing tape around the side of the container to stop crickets climbing up
    -no substrate needed
    -egg boxes are ideal hiding places
    - do not feed cucumber as it makes them smell
    - varied diet will result in less cricket deaths: weetabix, oats and dog/cat food is good (+occasional carrot, potato, lettuce, fresh fruit)
    -provide small water dish for drinking (not too deep as crickets will drown in it)
    -lower humidity rather than higher is wanted
    -crickets will not breed at room temps. temps need to be between 24 and 28 degrees C
    -adult female crickets have a long egg depositing tube sticking out their backside whereas adult males do not. You only need 1 male per 4 females so feed the excess males away.
    -use a shallow dish filled with damp soil for egg laying. Remove every few days and replace with new dish. Store egg dishes in warm humid environment (this is to prevent males eating the eggs).
    -eggs take 2-3 weeks to hatch and hatchlings need to be kept humid

    Roaches:

    -the great thing about roaches is that they need alot less space than crickets do
    -no noise and reduced smell compared to crickets, avoid cucumber with roaches too though
    -Roaches do better with a higher humidity but this can encourage mould
    - Same diet as crickets but will eat any odd scraps going and seem to really enjoy raisins, corn and mushrooms
    -small water dish for drinking
    -egg boxes for hiding places
    -I would recommend using packing tape along the sides with all roaches to avoid escapes
    -These need temps between 25 and 35 degrees C, the warmer the conditions, the higher growing and breeding rates will be
    -male roaches have wings whereas female roaches only have wing stumps. Like with crickets, 1:4 male to female ratio is good


    The 3 most common roaches seem to be :

    Loster Roach (Naupheta cinerea) :

    The fastest breeder. It can climb glass! Gives birth to live young. About 3cm big as adults.

    Turkistan Roach(Blatta Lateralis) :

    Nymphs are same size as pinheads and so ideal for slings. These cannot climb glass. Average sized roach reaching about 2-3cm. Can be bred as fast as lobsters if eggs are removed and stored in warm humid place.
    One advantage of the turkestan compared to the other two roaches is that it does not bury itself to hide or "play dead" when fed to your T.
    Although these roaches will not escape from their container one big problem with this species is transfering them from their container to your Tarantula without accidentally dropping one as they are fast and skittish. Apart from this speed issue they are in my opinion the perfect feeder insect.


    Orange spotted Roach(Blaptica dubia) :

    The slowest breeder out of the 3. Reaches 4-5 cm. Cannot climb glass. One advantage they have over the turkistans is that they are alot easier to catch(much slower and less shy) and thus also less likely to escape while feeding them.


    Waxworms:

    There are two types, the lesser waxworm and the greater waxworm.

    These are by far the easiest insect to breed and it needs the least amount of space. It is a shame they cannot be used as a main diet and should only ever be used as occasional treats because they are highly fattening but their ease of breeding means that everybody should really have some.

    Food: weetabix, ground up really finely, mixed with honey till moist looking but not too sticky.

    Then to breed just chuck the food in to a container with the waxworms and keep warm(25-30 degrees). The warmer, the faster they grow.
    After about 2 months, the waxworms will pupate into moths. Do not open the container while it is filled with moths. These moths only live for a week and should breed in this time laying lots of eggs. Remove all dead moths once they have died. After about 2 weeks you will notice the first caterillars crawling about after which they grow very fast.
    Once the caterillars are big enough, I would recommend changing the food and starting over again.
    It is very important to never ever give waxworms any moisture. Keep them bone dry.

    You can see why these are so easy to keep as they literally only need checking on every month or so.

    Flies:

    The 3 most common flies are the small fruit fly(Drosophila melanogaster), the large fruitfly (drosophila hydei) and a curly wing variety of the common house fly (Musca domestica).

    -Flies are the only insect on my list so far that will readily breed at room temps.
    -good food has been weetabix and oats mixed together with some banana, add some water till it's a paste(then add cider vinegar, see below).
    -They need a very high humidity
    -In my experience, the best setup has been a tupperware container filled with moist soil to keep humidity high, then a little dish filled with their food.
    -Such high humidity is inevitably going to make their food go mouldy but there is an easy way to prevent this: cider vinegar is very acidic and if mixed into the food mixture will prevent mould growing. The flies don't mind the vinegar at all.
    -Musca flies need to be kept slightly different with low humidity and high humidity stages needed in their life time. Read more at
    http://www.jangala.co.uk/Curly%20win...%20webpage.htm

    Maggots:

    -un-dyed maggots are a great way of feeding insects if you can find some in a tackle shop near you.
    -can be stored in fridge and not worth breeding as long as you can get hold of a tackle shop selling them as bait.

    And finally mealworms:

    House the mealworms in a warm tupperware container filled with oats. A damp sponge attached to the lid of the container will provide a little humidity but they really do not need alot and oats can go mouldy very easily if kept too stale and moist.
    Once they have grown into adult beetles feed additional dog biscuits and if they are getting enough heat they will breed and lay eggs into the oats and a month later or so worms will emerge.




    I hope this helps somebody atleast

    Please post if you have some useful tips regarding breeding any of these.
    Last edited by Tom Forman; 30-07-08, 06:27 PM.
    <<< Waxworm specialist >>>

  • #2
    Nice write up Tom,

    Just a few notes on the above (from experience).

    you could use crushed weatabix for substrate for the crickets.

    Black field Crickets do breed at room temp, my lad Shane had bred some just recently and the temp in the room averages 18c - 21c (65f - 70f).

    Mealworms need meat in their diet to breed to their optimum (feed them any dead crickets you find) again they will breed at lower temps if the living conditions are perfect
    Don't forget to learn what you can, when you can, where you can.



    Please Support CB Grammostola :- Act Now To Secure The Future

    Comment


    • #3
      just a tip I learned you want roaches to thrive give them chicken feed not the seed type. I can't remember what it was called but the go crazy over it. that is what I fed my colony back in the states.
      "The question is not, Can they reason? nor, Can they talk? but, Can they suffer?"
      Jeremy Bentham

      Comment


      • #4
        thx colin and great tips.

        I have always wondered why they sold black and brown crickets as the black cricket just seemed like a worse variety but if they breed at room temps they have got a distinct advantage over brown ones.

        Toran: I will have to give the chicken feed a try, nice 1
        Last edited by Tom Forman; 18-02-08, 09:09 PM.
        <<< Waxworm specialist >>>

        Comment


        • #5
          A few additions I've come across:
          Morioworms - a bigger version of mealworms
          Maggots
          Earthworms - see thread on them in BTS forum
          My Collection - Summer 2011



          Comment


          • #6
            This thread should be made sticky, its awesome advice

            Comment


            • #7
              What do you all feed your roaches?

              Comment


              • #8
                I feed mine vegetables and dry dog food

                My Collection:

                Comment


                • #9
                  Regarding breeding the Morio (super worms), a lot of people say they're hard to breed or that they have been given a hormone to stop them breeding, not so (or if they have it doesn't work!!)
                  Morio's will not pupate when they are in contact with other worms and to get them to pupate you have to seperate them.
                  The best way is to get some film containers (dark ones are best as they do not to allow any light in). add a little substrate (no food) and put 1 worm in each container. (obviously ventilate the tubs)
                  Date the container, to keep an eye on time scedules.
                  Keep them around 80F degrees. the cooler it is the longer it will take. Once they have pupated it will take two to three weeks for them to turn into a beetle.
                  Once the beetles are available, place then into a large ventilated container with compost as substrate and feed them fruit, salad, bran, corn flakes and a little meat (dead crickets work well)
                  You can leave the beetles in the container untill they die, or if you wish take them out after a week and place them into another and see if you can get another batch.
                  Don't forget to learn what you can, when you can, where you can.



                  Please Support CB Grammostola :- Act Now To Secure The Future

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I might try keeping earthworms.
                    Went looking for some but of course the soil is frozen at the moment lol.
                    (Good food for earthworms seems to be rotting leaves and cornmeal?)

                    I did find some woodlice while I was looking and thought I'd use them as tank cleaners but my Tarantula ate them.

                    So would woodlice be a good food for smaller T's? They are very easy to keep that is for sure.

                    For someone who does not want to use heat to breed feeder insects, they could get away with breeding black crickets, Flies, earthworms and woodlice and that is a pretty varied diet there...
                    <<< Waxworm specialist >>>

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Any ideas why cucumber would inhibit growth?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Cucumbers made up of a large percentage of water and has no real mineral, protein attributes, so maybe it doesn't inhibit growth so much as growth doesn't occur due to there being no nutritional benefits from it apart from quenching thirst?
                        Don't forget to learn what you can, when you can, where you can.



                        Please Support CB Grammostola :- Act Now To Secure The Future

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          no cucumber doesn't inhibit growth.

                          It just makes the cricket or roach poo smell bad and you don't want to smell a nasty smell every time you check on them.
                          That is the only real reason you should avoid feeding cucumber.

                          I've heard its the same with brussel sprouts and any vegetables that normally make people gassy.
                          <<< Waxworm specialist >>>

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            earthworms are decompositors breaking down animal and plant matter. They take their nutrients from these and the soil and do extremely well in a compost heap. There's a thread devoted to earthworms in this forum that helps explains the value of them as a food source as well as comparisons to other food items.
                            I stopped feeding my crickets cucumber because it goes off quite quickly and as it has a large water content tends to effect the eggboxes etc. I also used to feed them crispy lettuce but again this has little nutrional value so I've moved to lambs lettuce which doesn't carry the water volume of others. I try the odd grape, strawberry and plenty of dry foods eg porridge and cheap fish food. Only wish I could clip their wings/legs as the damned things kept me up til 2am last nt!!!
                            My Collection - Summer 2011



                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Quick tip Peter

                              use a cotton bud to drip honey onto the wings of the male crickets.

                              1) it stops them being able to chirp = no noise
                              2) the other cricks eat the honey AND the wings = no noise

                              Lovely and quiet here mate !!!
                              Don't forget to learn what you can, when you can, where you can.



                              Please Support CB Grammostola :- Act Now To Secure The Future

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X