Heated Cabinet question...??

[Steve Coe]

hi folks.

I'm going to make a heated cabinet this week, from a carcass from Ikea, I'm a bit unsure about the shelving though, does anyone have any plans, diagrams etc. of heated cabinets for me to peruse..?

I would imagine that the shelves should have large gaps at the front and rear for the air to circulate, is this correct?

[Colin D Wilson]

I think everybody makes amendments to suit their own collection Steve.

Good circulation is always best and more cost effective in the long run if the temps controlled by a thermostat.

Heat rises so i would place the sensor near the top to save any over heating for the higher shelves.
The species needing the warmer temps would them sit on the top and you can graduate the species temp requirements as you place them further down the unit.

I would have some (accurate) thermometers placed top....middle...and bottom so you can see the temp at a glance and adjust as neccessary.

[Phil Rea]

hi folks.

I'm going to make a heated cabinet this week, from a carcass from Ikea, I'm a bit unsure about the shelving though, does anyone have any plans, diagrams etc. of heated cabinets for me to peruse..?

I would imagine that the shelves should have large gaps at the front and rear for the air to circulate, is this correct?

Small gap at the rear on mine (for the heating cables), larger gap at front, controlled by a Habistat thermostat

[Craig White]

I actually use the 'detolf' glass cabinet from ikea, there is a small gap at the top and bottom of the door to allow air to circulate the shelves also have a gap at the front and back to allow the air to circulate, i also use a large heat mat (on the back outside) connected to a thermostat.

The temps at the top are around 25-26 and getting cooler to 21.6 on the bottom shelf. I use the clock temp things from sainsbury's ( its a bedside clock but has temperature on it to a tenth of a degree.)

Craig

[Nicola Dolby]

Myself I use Clearseal tanks, size 15 x 18 x 12 inches, except for the really big ones then its Exo-Terra. Clearseal have a slide glass panel on the lid for access, brilliant ventilation and a service hole in the lid to put a thermostat sensor in. Just put the heat mat on the back of the tank and you're away. If the temperature is lower outside the tank you'll get condensation which should provide you with all the humidity in the tank you need. Watch out if you use topsoil for a substrate though, yesterday I had to fetch 3 freshly grown mushrooms out of my T. apophysis tank!

[Steve Coe]

Thanks for the replies folks.

I've managed to get the bulk of the work done today, (it's hard with jameaters).

I still have to sort out the sliding glass/perspex doors and get a nice thermostat from the wholesalers.

I'll post some pix later...

I'm still not sure I can heat is sufficiently with a 23" heat mat... but should know later. I may have to get a heat cable.

[Steve Coe]

Finally managed to finish it

Here are some pix of my heated cabinet, made from a "Pax" wardrobe from Ikea...

3 sets of sliding doors, and two big drawers on the bottom for storeage of spider/reptile paraphernalia.

I've learned a couple things from this project..

• Don't use 6.4mm laminated glass - its very heavy and bends your shelves
• Make huge holes in the back of the shelves - so you can slot sockets and plugs through.

now I cant wait until the show so I can fill the thing up....