Mould

[Ben Cook]

Hi,

I have inherited an Avic. off a friend and I have a wee issue. I got the spider in its setup and unfortunately there were a few dead but uneaten crickets and some bolus in the bottom of the tank. A few tufts of white furry mould have started to surface which I have removed, however I'm wondering if a complete clean and re start is in order. The substrate is spiderlife which I hate because it doesnt hold moisture. Is it also prone to mould? if so I will probably just clean it out and replace with vermiculite and coir. Bit worried about moving the spider though as it looks pre-moult.

[Jamie Cooper]

Hi Ben,

Sounds like you have a tough descision to make. A good start would be to remove all the dead uneaten food items, bolus and any mould where it is visiable.

Some may disagree, but I would be tempted to leave the spider in it's current setup until it has moulted, if it is indeed in premoult. Wait until the spider has moulted and fully hardened up before moving it and re-doing it's setup. I'm guessing from your description that its at least a juvenile/sub adult? If so, in the mean time make sure you have a water dish available.

Post some pics of the spider and setup, that would help. Good luck,

Jamie

[Ben Cook]

Hi Jamie,

Thanks for your input. It is indeed a juvenile/sub adult.

I have removed the bolus, dead crickets and mould and I have put some more ventilation holes in the side of the tank nearer teh substrate (was only top ventilated) and placed a heat mat underneath to dry the substrate a bit. Fortunately the spider is very docile and inactive so I have managed to remove half teh subtrate and replace it with coir and vermiculite so I am pretty happy with it at the minute. Spider seems happy enough (its not moving and its not dead)

[Jamie Cooper]

Hi Ben,

If your mould problem continues, you might want to consider adding some springtails (Folsomia candida) into the enclosure. They are tiny white bugs that eat mould/fungus. I use them in all of my enclosures that require high humidity. They will keep your enclosure nice and clean, free of mould.

Jamie

[Aragorn Davies]

Hi Ben,

If your mould problem continues, you might want to consider adding some springtails (Folsomia candida) into the enclosure. They are tiny white bugs that eat mould/fungus. I use them in all of my enclosures that require high humidity. They will keep your enclosure nice and clean, free of mould.

Jamie

This sounds good where would we get them from, i will put some in my T Stirmi tank if they are cool

[Jamie Cooper]

This sounds good where would we get them from, i will put some in my T Stirmi tank if they are cool

You can buy cultures from www.dartfrog.co.uk but they haven't had any in stock for some time now. I haven't been able to locate them anywhere else. Usually if you use peat as substrate they just appear after a few weeks. A lot of people get them confused with mites and panic thinking they have a mite infestation.

I can send you some of mine if you like. PM me you home address and I'll get some sent out after Christmas.

Jamie

[Aragorn Davies]

You can buy cultures from www.dartfrog.co.uk but they haven't had any in stock for some time now. I haven't been able to locate them anywhere else. Usually if you use peat as substrate they just appear after a few weeks. A lot of people get them confused with mites and panic thinking they have a mite infestation.

I can send you some of mine if you like. PM me you home address and I'll get some sent out after Christmas.

Jamie

after having a look on the internet at these little blighters it may be entirely possible that this was what i had in my T Stirimi set up, that caused me great concern! i did indeed remove said T and Removed all substrate, re-homed said T in the new larger enclosure with a thermo nuclear microwaved new substrate.....i then microwaved the old substrate until it was hotter than the surface of the sun and left it to dry completely...i did indeed think it was a mite infestation but lacking a decent microscope i could not tell what they where by eye, but they did bear a remarkable resemblance to those in your post....so these are in fact good for the soil and do the T no harm...????

[Peter Roach]

I am puzzled at the set in stone idea in our hobby that avics need high humidity. Almost all the humidity tests and readings that are said to be the optimum for avic's are done at ground level or a few feet above where the humidity is much higher than the upper levels of the trees where Avicularia species live.
Avics have a bad reputation for dying for no reason . . . RUBBISH.
99% of all avic deaths can be blamed on incorrect husbandry. A large proportion of posts on most forums concerning avics are complaints about mould and fungus, both of which thrive in high humidity and low air flow.
I keep all my avic's of whatever size or species in containers with holes melted just above substrate level and with a 100% open meshed lid and DRY SUBSTRATE. Once a week I squirt a few ML of water from a syringe into the web and thats it.
I havent lost an avic of any size or species in years unlike many people who keep their avic's with damp substrate and daily mistings.

[Jamie Cooper]

so these are in fact good for the soil and do the T no harm...????

Precisely. If you really want to go to town, get some tropical woodlice too. Employing both will keep your enclosure clear of mould/fungus or leftovers.

I am puzzled at the set in stone idea in our hobby that avics need high humidity. Almost all the humidity tests and readings that are said to be the optimum for avic's are done at ground level or a few feet above where the humidity is much higher than the upper levels of the trees where Avicularia species live.
Avics have a bad reputation for dying for no reason . . . RUBBISH.
99% of all avic deaths can be blamed on incorrect husbandry. A large proportion of posts on most forums concerning avics are complaints about mould and fungus, both of which thrive in high humidity and low air flow.
I keep all my avic's of whatever size or species in containers with holes melted just above substrate level and with a 100% open meshed lid and DRY SUBSTRATE. Once a week I squirt a few ML of water from a syringe into the web and thats it.
I havent lost an avic of any size or species in years unlike many people who keep their avic's with damp substrate and daily mistings.

Interesting read Pete. I keep mine at around 80%. That's just an estimate as I have no guage. I just keep the substrate wet enough so that my springtails can survive. I now only mist spiderlings and that is for drinking water. My juveniles have water bowls. I've had 3 die in just over 2 years but all for different reasons. None I believe were due to bad husbandry.

Jamie

[Ben Cook]

I am puzzled at the set in stone idea in our hobby that avics need high humidity. Almost all the humidity tests and readings that are said to be the optimum for avic's are done at ground level or a few feet above where the humidity is much higher than the upper levels of the trees where Avicularia species live.
Avics have a bad reputation for dying for no reason . . . RUBBISH.
99% of all avic deaths can be blamed on incorrect husbandry. A large proportion of posts on most forums concerning avics are complaints about mould and fungus, both of which thrive in high humidity and low air flow.
I keep all my avic's of whatever size or species in containers with holes melted just above substrate level and with a 100% open meshed lid and DRY SUBSTRATE. Once a week I squirt a few ML of water from a syringe into the web and thats it.
I havent lost an avic of any size or species in years unlike many people who keep their avic's with damp substrate and daily mistings.

This is interesting, I think I will see how this goes. I have replaced the substrate with dry and put a water dish in, the spider does seem more active and is taking food now which it wasnt before. When I got it there was no webbing to speak of and she still has not webbed which I am a little bit concerned about. Should I worry about this fact?

[Peter Roach]

I have noticed that most avics dont like being moved. When I do move one, I always try to put some if the old web into the new home and then leave it for at least a week before bothering for any reason.
An avic in a new home can sulk for weeks before settling in and building a web, so dont worry about it.
I noticed that you have a waterbowl in the new home, possibly you dont know that avics rarely if ever venture onto the floor ? So a waterbowl on the floor is a bit pointless really it would be much better if the bowl was somehow raised off the floor, maybe using hotglue the bowl could be fixed to some corkbark or similar ? Personally I dont use waterbowls for arborials as I find that the odd squirt of water and a few roaches a week is enough.

[Craig Mackay]

They will if they're thirsty Pete. They may or may not venture down to the forest floor in the wild all that often but in captivity the rules are different as you know. The raised waterbowl thing is a good idea though. It may simulate water pooled in a leaf or a hole in a tree. Makes it easier to get too in a top opening tub/tank.

[Ben Cook]

Thanks for the advice Peter! I will give that a try. the water bowl was more for humidity anyway as I live in a very dry house (hygrometer shows a steady 30% almost all year round!)

[Christian Elowsky]

I know this is a late reply, but there is not need to fret a little mold. Composting happens when there is moisture and food available. Sometimes those food resources are insect bodies, sometimes it's the substrate itself. The fungi which are breaking down those food items pose no threat to your animal unless the entire enclosure is mold covered. To control the problem, just increase the air flow a bit, or remove the offending item, and you're done. Doing a complete clean up only costs you more money, and stresses the animal out. The "trick" with Avicularia is have high humidity and good air flow. I often keep the lower 3/4th of the substrate (I used 100% peat) soaking wet and the upper 1/4 dry. This keeps humidity in the air, but does not allow the surface to support too much composting... A few air holes and watering down the side is all I has taken for my Avicularia spp. to do just fine. If you couple this wish high mounted water dishes, and relax, you and your pink-toes will be just fine. Good luck.

Christian

[Ray Hale]

I tend to agree with Peter a here. I believe that the key to success with Avicularia species is ventilation. We have a number of Avics and all are kept in arboreal tanks with a sliding front and are all vented at the rear with mesh. Its seems to work for us as we have had one particular speciman for nearly fifteen years from spiderling. We spary the tank regularly but it is not soaked.
With reagard to mould I think we sometimes try to make a bit of a science out of keeping spiders. Christian is right in saying that a little substrate breakdown is not a bad thing as long as it is kept a close eye on. Observing them in their natural habitat you come to realise that most tarantulas will make the best of any surrounding. I once found a juvenile Phlogellius innermis living in a discarded shoe!!!!

Yes, tank husbandry is essential and removal of dead crickets is highly recommeded to avoid mite infestations but to understand we must first observe.

Sounds like your on the right track though so keep watching and remeber to record it all down for future generations.

Ray Hale
BTS Committee