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  • Maximum humidity

    Hi all. Used coco fibre expanding block things, basically lifted it out and wrung it so as little water came across as possible.

    Weeks later, after much putting in larger surface area tubs near radiators it is drier. But with the lid on my tank the humidity easily passes 80% and generally is near 90%.

    How do I dry it out quicker (I think the microwave and oven are out as my wife wouldn't approve I'm sure)? I'm thinking hairdryer!

    Also, at what humidity is it dangerous (as in the maximum) for a starter New World?

  • #2
    In my humble opinion, if your enclosure has good cross ventilation, then I think your substrate should be fine. It must not give drops of water when squeezed, neither should it create condensation on the glasses. But otherwise, your T should be fine. Is it a desert sp. or a tropical sp.?

    If you are worried about some care sheets your read, don't. And humidity will decrease with time anyway. Just don't overflow the waterdish or sprinkle water until it's dry.

    I don't have good solutions to dry the substrate: with hairdryer blowing, you will decorate anew your bathroom with dirt, won't you? And I'm not sure your wife will appreciate, even if you stay far away from the oven!
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    • #3
      Originally posted by Nicolas Charrière View Post
      In my humble opinion, if your enclosure has good cross ventilation, then I think your substrate should be fine. It must not give drops of water when squeezed, neither should it create condensation on the glasses. But otherwise, your T should be fine. Is it a desert sp. or a tropical sp.?

      If you are worried about some care sheets your read, don't. And humidity will decrease with time anyway. Just don't overflow the waterdish or sprinkle water until it's dry.

      I don't have good solutions to dry the substrate: with hairdryer blowing, you will decorate anew your bathroom with dirt, won't you? And I'm not sure your wife will appreciate, even if you stay far away from the oven!
      I was going to use that weird defuser attachment

      My tank is poorly ventilated as it is glass walls and a wooden lid (with half a dozen airholes). I suspect that is why the humidity barely changes with the lid on (which would be great, if it was where i wanted it to start with). Like i say, about a month of the lid off and heat mats on and it has dropped about 2%. Im sure when summer hits it will be dry as a bone, but that's too far away.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Rickie Lowery View Post
        the humidity easily passes 80% and generally is near 90%.

        How are you measuring the humidity ? If you are using one of the dial types . . . they are about as good as a chocolate teapot.
        The best thing you can do is throw it in the nearest bin and totally forget about humidity.
        Forget that you even know the word and that it had never been invented


        Originally posted by Rickie Lowery View Post
        How do I dry it out quicker (I think the microwave and oven are out as my wife wouldn't approve I'm sure)? I'm thinking hairdryer!
        Take the crappy coir out and spread it out on newspaper to a maximum depth of 1/2" in a warm room overnight to dry it out.
        The thinner that you spread it out, the quicker it will dry.
        If the tank is occupied, put the spider in a empty cricket box while the crap is drying out.

        Originally posted by Rickie Lowery View Post
        Also, at what humidity is it dangerous (as in the maximum) for a starter New World?
        Contrary to popular belief, NW's do NOT live in, nor need high humidity 24/7.
        In fact, they only have to put up with high humidity for a few months of the year during the rainy season. They can live in high humidity but it doesnt do them much good unless you are conditioning them for breeding



        You can also drill more holes in the lid or cut a section out and cover the hole with mesh.

        Unless you live in the artic or the scottish highlands, almost all T's do NOT need a heatmat.



        It would be helpful if you could accurately describe your setup and the species of species you have (or will be getting) A photo would be ideal
        Last edited by Peter Roach; 16-03-15, 07:12 PM.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Peter Roach View Post
          How are you measuring the humidity ? If you are using one of the dial types . . . they are about as good as a chocolate teapot.
          The best thing you can do is throw it in the nearest bin and totally forget about humidity.
          Forget that you even know the word and that it had never been invented




          Take the crappy coir out and spread it out on newspaper to a maximum depth of 1/2" in a warm room overnight to dry it out.
          The thinner that you spread it out, the quicker it will dry.
          If the tank is occupied, put the spider in a empty cricket box while the crap is drying out.



          Contrary to popular belief, NW's do NOT live in, nor need high humidity 24/7.
          In fact, they only have to put up with high humidity for a few months of the year during the rainy season. They can live in high humidity but it doesnt do them much good unless you are conditioning them for breeding



          You can also drill more holes in the lid or cut a section out and cover the hole with mesh.

          Unless you live in the artic or the scottish highlands, almost all T's do NOT need a heatmat.



          It would be helpful if you could accurately describe your setup and the species of species you have (or will be getting) A photo would be ideal
          Fuller reply to follow, but it's a digital reading so trustworthy.
          Also in winter the room drops to around 10C, so a heatmat is definitely needed here!

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